Measure the following parameters carefully, using an accurate ruler or calipers,
to within .03 inches or .8 mm: length, width, height and "E-to-E" string spacing.
The diagram above illustrates where the measurements should be taken.
Measure the length and width at the base of the nut. Some nuts taper towards the
top and will render an inaccurate reading if measured elsewhere.
Measure the height at the tallest part of the nut, which is not always at the centre
of the nut.
For the E-to-E string spacing measurement, measure as closely as possible to the
centre of each string slot.
The E-to-E spacing measurement is the most important parameter to match with a replacement
nut. It determines the string spacing on the neck, and how close the strings are
to the edge of the fingerboard. It is not adjustable; unlike the length, width or
height of a nut, string spacing cannot be adjusted to fit.
Should you find a nut that is a little too long, high or wide, you can easily remove
the excess material by working the part back and forth along a piece of 600-grit
sandpaper placed on a firm, flat surface.
STEP 1. Remove the strings. Trace around (score) every edge of the nut with an exacto
knife to prevent lacquer sticking to the nut and the neck and chipping away.
STEP 2. If the nut is not sitting in a slot, usually a light tap with a small block
will set it free. If it is sitting in a slot, gently tap it out sideways using a
hammer and a screw driver.
STEP 3. When it is sticking out the side, pull it out in the same direction with
a pair pliers, like you would a tooth. Scrape or file the nut slot free from old
glue and finish residue while making sure that slot remains square.
STEP 4. See if the Graph Tech nut fits into the slot, without forcing it. If it’s
too thick, place a 100 grit (to start) to 400 grit (to finish) sand paper face up
on a flat surface and sand down the bottom and sides of the nut until it fits in
the slot snugly but is easily removable.
STEP 5. Restring the high and low E strings and tune to pitch to check for correct
height. Pushing down on the third note of the low E string should result in a .010”
gap between the string and the first fret; high E string should be .006”
STEP 6. Once you’ve done the thickness and the height, you just need to sand the
ends of the nut so that they are flush with the neck. Just use a pencil and mark
the ends of the nut that are sticking out, remove it from the neck and sand it to
your marks.
Measure the following parameters carefully, using an accurate ruler or calipers,
to within .03 inches or .8 mm: length, width, height and "E-to-E" string spacing.
The diagram above illustrates where the measurements should be taken.
Measure the length and width at thebase of the nut. Some nuts taper towards the
top and will render an inaccurate reading if measured elsewhere.
Measure the height at the tallest part of the nut, which is not always at the centre
of the nut.
For the E-to-E string spacing measurement, measure as closely as possible to the
centre of each string slot.
The E-to-E spacing measurement is the most important parameter to match with a replacement
nut. It determines the string spacing on the neck, and how close the strings are
to the edge of the fingerboard. It is not adjustable; unlike the length, width or
height of a nut, string spacing cannot be adjusted to fit.
Should you find a nut that is a little too long, high or wide, you can easily remove
the excess material by working the part back and forth along a piece of 600-grit
sandpaper placed on a firm, flat surface.
STEP 1. Remove the strings. Most acoustic saddles will lift right out with pliers.
Occasionally you may find one glued in. If so, get a competent guitar tech to complete
the job. Do NOT pry it out as you may take some wood from your bridge with it. Once
removed, clean the slot of any debris.
STEP 2. Check if the Graph Tech saddle fits into the slot, without forcing it. If
it’s too thick, place a 400 to 600 grit sand paper face up on a flat surface and
sand down the sides of the saddle until it fits in the slot snugly but is easily
removable. You may have to reduce the length also.
STEP 3. The saddle should slip in easily, but snugly enough that you are able to
turn the guitar upside down without the saddle falling out. Next, you need to adjust
the string height.
STEP 4. Put your old saddle and the Graph Tech saddle together and match up the
tops. With a pencil, mark a line along the bottom of your new saddle.
STEP 5. Lower the saddle down to the line by rubbing the bottom of the nut on the
sandpaper until you achieve the proper height. Work in small increments; check your
work frequently to ensure you don’t remove too much material.
STEP 6. Measure the gap between the top of the 12th fret and the bottom of the low
E string. It should be just under 3mm (.118”, or about a stack of 12 business cards
if you don’t have a ruler) and for the high E, 2mm (.079”, or about a stack of 8
business cards).